Buy APC Universal Transfer Switch 10-Circuit 120/240VAPC Universal Transfer Switch 10-Circuit 120/240V Product Description:
- Generator and UPS compatible
- LCD display and LED status indicators
- IEC-320 C14 input connections
- 20A Maximum Line Current per phase
- 120VAC/240VAC input/output
Product Description
The APC Universal Transfer Switch (UTS) monitors the utility power conditions of your home or small business and safely transfers loads to two backup power sources when a power disturbance occurs. Power is conveniently distributed from the backup sources to as many as ten circuits, keeping critical loads such as lights, furnaces, well pumps, and home appliances up and running during an outage. Unlike other transfer switches that are compatible only with generators, the UTS can also be connected to a UPS. As a result of this unique feature, your most important loads will remain uninterrupted and conditioned during that critical time between a power failure and generator start-up. The UTS also incorporates patent-pending Adaptive Load Management technology (ALM) which intelligently monitors power usage and automatically sheds and reconnects loads in order to prevent generator overload. All APC Universal Transfer Switches comply with the UL 1008 transfer switch standard, giving you peace of mind during installation and operation.
Customer Reviews
Most helpful customer reviews
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Great product
By Ken W.
I just installed this myself a few weekends ago (pulled a permit with my town, did the install, tested the install, got it inspected). It's a high quality unit with some really nice features, such as supporting two inputs for backup power, and also doing load management. The two inputs are what sold me - they mostly document the 2nd input for a UPS, which will keep power alive to some circuits long enough for you to get your generator started.However, I configured that input to a 2nd generator. Why? I need a 240V generator to start/run my well pump for household water, but big generators like that make a lot of noise and burn a lot of gas. If it wasn't for the well pump, I would have just bought a Yamaha or Honda 2KW inverter generator, which is enough to ride through a nominal power outage. The key advantage to the smaller generators is that you don't need to store a lot of gas, and they're very quiet. You can buy a quiet large 240V generator, but they're very expensive and also still not very fuel efficient. By the way, I'm not worried about the cost of gas during an outage, but there are times you can't get gas, such as the areas around NY/NJ now after Hurricane Sandy. And what if there is some monster snow storm?So, for less money than the cost of a quiet large inverter generator, I bought 2 generators. A Yamaha 2kw inverter (quiet, fuel miser), and a bigger Honda EM5000S. I intend to mostly run the small generator, the larger one will replenish the well tanks when needed and also act as a backup. I'll sell them both when I move.This APC unit, having two inputs, and being an automatic transfer switch, allows me to plug in either generator and it does the rest, including only powering certain circuits (programmable) for the smaller generator (such as not giving power to the well pump). Also, the load management feature should allow the smaller generator to power more circuits as the switch will shut off some circuits (ie. fridge) during the brief times the generator is overloaded (e.g. when running the microwave).All in all this is an unusual product and under appreciated I think. Time will tell if it's reliable, though APC has a good reputation and the unit appears very well made. Also, FYI, I had sent an email to APC questioning about the 2nd input's capabilities, and I got a quick and clear answer from their tech support. In real English. So product support seems on the ball. Good luck.
1 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Premium transfer switch, with great features
By C. Delmar
DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN! Just because these things worked for me doesn't mean they will apply to your situation. SEEK THE ADVICE OF A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN! blah blah blah...PROs-- well-built / looks good-- Has many configurable settings for how power is allocated to the loads you have connected.-- Has front-panel LCD readouts of usage and settings-- Each load circuit is represented on the front with a bright red LED. This will tell you if one or more circuits have been shed (or blown.)-- Multiple inputs: when utility power is cut, you can configure it to supply each individual circuit (except the 240V) from either the generator source, or the secondary source.-- Each source is represented with a bright green LED showing availability: Utility, Generator, UPS.-- I have a UPS on my secondary source but, as another reviewer pointed out, you could also attach a small generator there. (15A max = 1800W max at 120V.)-- load shedding -- when you first configure the unit, you set the capacity of each source, and the unit will "shed" ("delay") loads in rotation to avoid exceeding the limit that you've set (which would overload your generator.)-- The unit can be set to auto-start your generator if main power fails (if your generator supports it, is OUTSIDE, ten feet away from any building, and set up properly). Separate kit required.-- Support is good. I've asked APC tech support a couple of questions via email, and they've responded within a day, with useful information. Phone support was also helpful.CONs-- Protects each individual circuit with a fuse. From my experience with a short circuit, the fuse blows before the main panel breaker trips. These fuses cost about $11 each here on Amazon (see below for spec).-- 240V required -- you must supply 240V power for the unit to operate at full capacity.-- Two of the ten circuits on the unit are dedicated to a 240V circuit, even if you don't have a 240V load.SOME TIPSI had this unit in place when Sandy blew through, and I depended on it for the ten (10!) days we were without power. Here are a few things I learned the hard way.-- To replace a blown fuse on short notice, have these on hand:___> To open the case: Robertson #3 square head bit___> Fuse-puller tool: such as Ideal Industries Small Fuse Puller, 5" Long for 0 to 30A/250V, 1/4" to 1/2" Diameter Fuses___> Spare 15A fuses: Mersen ATMR15 600V 15A Cc___> Spare 20A fuses: Mersen ATMR20 600V 20A Cc-- The unit comes with 15A fuses installed on each 120V circuit. On installation, replace 15A fuses with 20A on those circuits requiring it.-- Configure the unit correctly to get the best performance. For example:___> Configure each circuit to match the load type. It will use this to set the delay timings (max off & min on).___> All high-drawing circuits should be set to "Delayable", if at all possible, to allow the unit to effectively manage your total load. Otherwise, you could still overload your generator.___> When the unit was first installed, a couple of circuits were set to OFF in the configuration settings. Set them back to ON before calling tech support.___> Set the UTS to match the capacity of each circuit (15 vs 20A).-- In a normal configuration, the UTS will take 5-10 seconds to energize your designated circuits from the UPS when the utility loses power, or the generator cuts out (such as when you run out of fuel.)-- Most circuits can be designated as "Non-interruptable" (to avoid that 5-10 second delay) but then the total load of those circuits can't exceed the capacity of your UPS, or about 12A (1440W @ 120V), whichever is smaller.-- The single UPS on the secondary input will run out of power quickly with a a normal household draw.-- I only have my lighting circuits set for UPS protection, and they draw down the UPS after about 5 or 10 minutes.-- Place separate, high-capacity UPS batteries on your critical loads, like sump pump and computers. This will also buy you more time to set up a portable generator, especially if you're away. I also have a UPS on the TV, so that I can set that circuit as "delayable".-- The price/performance sweet spot for UPS capacity is 1500VA, which you can pick up for about $150 or less. For higher capacities, the price climbs steeply. (The higher the VA rating, the longer the unit will be able to supply power at a given load.)-- Before you bring in an electrician, map out which circuits you want protected. You can only have 1x 240, and 8x 120V.___> I have: Sump & water softener, Refrigerator, Furnace (Blower Motor), Lighting x2, Computer, TV&Stereo, Microwave & Kitchen lights / outlets.-- Although the manual states "DO NOT use these [240V] circuits asindividual 120 V circuits", APC tech support has confirmed to me that "Yes, you can run the 240v circuit to a sub panel. It doesn't matter what the sub panel feeds; it would be up to the electrician to wire everything correctly and in code."OTHER THOUGHTS-- My generator is switchable between 120 and 240V but, when set to 240, its capacity is split between the two phases. So, you have to be more careful to balance the load across the two phases.-- My generator is also variable speed. With lower load, it will run at a lower rpm, and burn less fuel. With the load split, and uneven, it will turn as much as it needs to, to supply the side with the maximum load.-- Although this unit is a bit pricey, it's not that much more than a manual switch, and provides much more functionality.___> The increased functionality you get from this "premium" type of switch over a basic manual switch is well worth the incremental cost: about $480 vs $300-400.___> The cost of installation is far more than the cost of the switch so, if you're going to get a switch, I think it's worth getting a good one, like this unit, instead of a manual one.-- Note: the unit was redesigned around the beginning of 2012, and there is no longer a generator input on the front, as shown in the product photo. In these new units, the generator input must be hardwired from a separate inlet (purchased separately).CONCLUSION-- I'm happy with the features and performance of this unit, and I would purchase it again.-- For my house, where I do not need a 240V circuit, it would have been more efficient to be able to run the generator at 120V. However, I don't know of a 120V switch with comparable functionality and capacity to this unit.
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